Old trolling motor question

[fiker]

I have a fairly old bow mounted trolling motor made by Mercury. It works reasonably well considering.....

It does not have a "constant on" switch on the foot pedal.? I looked into the add on ones in the catalogs and I don't think they would work.?

Question:
Is anyone aware of a product that might work?

Is there a place where I can take it to maybe have a switch added inexpensively?

I live west of Ann Arbor.


Hey, this is my 50th post.  I'm not a Fry anymore!     

[Revtro]

That's a tough one.  I guess I'm thinking that you should at least be able to add a toggle switch wired paralell to the momentary switch to do that job.  There must be a wiring diagram somewhere online for that kind of thing.  Perhaps a search in Google will yield one.  Or... does anyone here know how to wire that?  I can't imagine it would be that tough to do.

Not sure if this helps.  It's the best I can come up with.

[fiker]

I've scratched my head on this one for awhile now.

I just know it's a pain in the patoot (can I say that here?) to stand on one leg, and run the motor w/ the other.

After all, walking and chewing gum is sometimes a little difficult. 

[Revtro]

I think this will work.

[stackenem]

I'm not sure but if you wire it like like would you not need to use a three way switch so he could go back to normal mode of operation if need be. I think if you bypass the switch altogether all you will have in on or off.

[Revtro]

I don't think so because if you wire it like this diagram, you are not actually bypassing the original switch.  So when the toggle is in the OFF position, the momentary would still do it's job.  But when the toggle is in the ON positiion, it would force the connection to occur.  You would still leave the momentary connected.  This should work perfectly.  It should be an easy modification to make to the trolling motor.  Fiker, if you ever want to get together and wire it up, I'd be happy to help you figure it out. 

[djkimmel]

I'm not an electrician. I have spent a lot of time in boat related wiring on my own. Sometimes, I do have a hard time figuring some things out when you start dealing with auto-switches and on-off, and/or three-way switches in conjunction, but in this case, I think Rev's idea should work logically.

I do not know if it may create an issue with fusing or heat/resistance. I'd just make sure the switch was a good one rated for the power going through the wires.