Time to replace my steering cables, trying to decide if I want to add a jackplate as well. I have a 02' Triton TR-185 with a 150 efi. Cable steering performs fine, so no reason for hydraulic steering. Everyone says to add a jackplate but I'm not sure it's worth it for the extra stress it puts on the transom. I don't care about top end would just like to have a little more hull to work with in rough water. Looking at a 6" manual, any recommendations? I primarily run the great lakes so I need something that can take a beating and is low maintenance(same reason I have cable steering). Right now I can run the boat in any kind of water conditions. Will I have to re-learn how to drive my boat with a jackplate? Just trying to get some great lakes advice, it's a different world for bass boats up here.
Thanks, Matt
I would not own a boat used on the great lakes without a jackplate. That said, I would not spend the $$ to get a manual plate, I would go with the hydraulic to really get the benifit. It cost's 2x - 3x more, but if you are going to spend the money and go to the trouble, make it worthwhile. When you install the plate, set the motor lower than you normally would if it were a manual plate.
At the lowest setting, you should try to get the prop shaft about 6" below the pad. Under normal conditions, you prob run 3 - 4" below the pad. With the hyd plate, you can drop the motor down, and still trim up to lift the bow. Prop stays hooked up and you have plenty of lift.
I like the Bob's plate. I had a 6" hyd on my last boat, 10" on my current boat. CMC also makes a decent unit that is self contained and really easy to install.
Seth
You'll have about 8 or 9 manufacturers to choose from. My personal favorites (in this order) would be:
Hydro Dynamics - Rapid Jack, this is probably the fastest, and easiest (to adjust) manual made. Very strong. Available in 6".
R&R Slidemaster - fairly easy to adjust, very strong. Avail. in 6".
RM Industries - Rite-Hite, fairly easy to adjust, very strong. Avail. in 6".
The Slidemaster and Rite-Hite are both available from Cabelas.
I have an 8" J&B Magnum Interplate Series on my boat (which I like a lot), but I don't think that it's made any longer.
You may realize a small increase in performance. The handling will be the biggest improvement (once you find the optimum setup). If you are experiencing any chine-walk on top end, you will likely be able to "tune" it out by experimenting with different motor height. You shouldn't need to "re-learn" to drive it, so much as adjust to making slightly different inputs.
One difference that you should feel is that the boat will handle like a slightly larger boat (a good thing in rough water). You will also be able to run the motor slightly higher. You will have to be careful not to go too high (pay close attention to your water pressure), where you loose water pressure on turns, and in rough water. You may also find that you can run a slightly larger prop (= more speed).
These days, most of the major bass boat manufacturers build their boats with transoms that are strong enough to handle a jackplate without affecting the strength of the boat. Be sure to check you manual to see if there are any size limits (for jackplate setback), and whether, or not, it will affect the warranty. Some guys are running up to 12" (or even 14") setback on their boats. I would be a little leary about those numbers in a rough water environment.
Last year I installed a 6" Hydro Dynamics manual on my 18'6" boat with a 150. I spent a day on the lake setting it up and found a decent medium. It did help the hole shot a bit and added about 4 MPH to the top, but now I need to jump up a pitch and go to a 4 blade prop since it turns 6,200 RPM. >:( $$$ >:( I don't run rough water too much but it did seem to feel like the boat stayed in the water better.
I wouldn't be without a jackplate. Every owner loads their boat differently, drives it differently, etc. There's no way the dealer can set up your rig for maximum performance for you.
That's not just more speed. Hole shot, handling, top end, they are all "tuneable" with different combinations of props and engine heights. You would be surprised at the performance you could pull from your hull with some experimenting. But that's only if you are willing to take some time to play with the set up. It's not complicated, but may take a couple of small adjustment sessions on the water.
I'll second both the hydraulic steering & jackplate. Especially for big water. Being able to drop the motor deeper will give you more useable trim range without breaking loose in big waves.
Matt:
I have a bobs 6" Hyd on mt Ranger, and love it. Not only impoves hole shot by driving it all the way down, but allows much better rough water handling.
Added benefit, you can raise it all the way up, and keep it trimeed down to get on plane in shallow water without bottoming out - a nice perk with the water as low as its been.