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Basic line question

Started by Mojo, October 01, 2017, 09:21:07 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mojo

I think I bought a bad batch of line or I need to change up. Used 10lb Flora Seagar Invisix, and have proceeded to snap lures with about 10 feet of line - sail them into the wild blue yonder.....same line 2 different rods. .... so- open thread:

What line do is use /recommend for:

Crankbaits ( deep)
Jerkbaits
Top water

Thank you in advance
Thanks Dan for bringing year round Catch and Release to Michigan

Team houston

Must be a bad batch or another problem because that line is awesome.

dartag

I use Walmart 10,000 yards for 1.49 a spool.   Change it every 4 years.  Works great.   

robhj

I went to braid with fluoro leader tied with an alberto knot a few years ago for most applications. However, for deep cranks I generally throw on 10-12# straight mono. I have experimented with the Sufix Super 21 low stretch mono & really like it. I've been throwing topwater on 30# braid tied to a foot long leader of 20# mono, but will probably switch to straight Sufix 21 next year for both topwater & jerkbaits. You can't beat the cost. I think it's about $6 for a spool of 200-300 yards at Dick's. I did break my topwater off a few times this year so I'm going to go to straight mono. It could have been due to my braid to mono knot (I use a foot long leader), but I'll feel more confident with straight mono that will give me a little stretch on my topwater rod. I throw a 7' medium power topwater rod and I don't like to throw straight braid because I fish a lot for smallies & like some shock absorption with the mono. For other applications where I use braid to fluoro, I generally have a long leader (more than 30-40'). I'm switching next year to straight Sufix 21 also for my jerkbait rod in 8# test.

LennyB

#4
Hey Mojo,

for what it's worth here's my 2 cents,

On my spinning rigs I use 30 lb Stealth bread and then attach a 15 foot fluorocarbon leader (P-line 100% fluorocarbon) by way of a blood knot, in 10 to 15 lb. test depending on what lure / technique I'm using. The braid doesn't where out, is super strong, super thin, and super sensitive. I change the length of leader every trip or as needed.

On my bait casters I've used just about everything but for the most part for lures like Spinner Baits, Crank Baits, anything that I cast and simple wind in, and where there's no doubt of detecting a streak, I went back to good old Berkley Trilene XT in 10 to 17 lb tests, depending on what and where I'm fishing. It's strong, cast great, and is not expensive. I used to use fluorocarbon but found the casting quality was no where near as forgiving. The extra stretch of mono is just something to get re-adjusted to if you haven't used it in awhile but after you get use to it again, it works great.

On my bait casters that I use for things like Jigs, Senko's, Worms, Flippin Baits, etc... where I need to feel the bite, I use the same 30 lb Stealth braid as I do on the spinning rig. I use the fluorocarbon leader in 15 to 20 lb. test if needed depending on water clarity.

Those combinations have worked the best for me over the years.

LennyB

#5
Oh yah, as for what to use for:

Crankbaits ( deep)
Jerkbaits
Top water

I use 10 to 14 lb mono for the most part for those. If I'm fishing in a lot of weeds I may use straight braid. It just depends on what works best for the situation at hand. An example is if it's real windy and I fishing the break on Cass Lake with a small pointer 78. I may fish it on a spinning rod with Braid and the fluoro leader to win over the wind. If I'm fishing the same pointer 78 on a calm sunny day in a calm shallow cove in clear water I may use my bait caster with 10 lb mono. It just depends on the situation at hand and what I feel will work the best for me in the current conditions.

AMSDJS

For topwater there's nothing better than McCoy's Mean Green in 15lb or 20lb test depending how much pressure you need to put on the bass from burying in cover. Available online, inexpensive, super limp and very good abrasion resistance: http://www.mccoyfishingline.com/newsite/prod_line_xtreme.html

For deep cranks and jerkbaits, you might try going up to 12lb test. What little you lose in depth you'll gain in abrasion resistance and save losing lures to the bass Gods. Tough to beat fluoro for cranking.

The only time I use braid is on spinning tackle and fishing thick weeds = punching, frogs, etc during Summer. And that's becoming less frquent since they have routinely been spraying the Half Moon chain and Portage chain as soon as June hits.

The other mono line I've heard that's good stuff is Izorline XXX. But it's made in Taiwan vs American made Mean Green so that's a no go for me!

Mojo

Hey thanks for the input guys, I went with P Line Tactical 10 lb for cranks, 20 lb Braid with a 10 lb  floro leader for Jerkbait, and a 12 lb mono Big Game for top water. I'll let ya guy know how it works out : ).


Lenny that was good input on taking wind into consideration, just something I didn't think of. Maybe I am weaking the line when I needed to 'pick' a birds nest ?
Thanks Dan for bringing year round Catch and Release to Michigan

Mojo

Quote from: Team houston on October 02, 2017, 09:50:46 AM
Must be a bad batch or another problem because that line is awesome.

Dave Reault and a whole bunch others said exactly the same.
Thanks Dan for bringing year round Catch and Release to Michigan

djkimmel

I mostly use P-Line braid or P-Line Fluoro (Halo a lot) for most things though I still have one crankbait rod rigged with 12 pound mono - some older line I have had for a while. I'll probably switch it to P-Line CXX when my old stash of line runs out.

For some of my topwater I still have a rod rigged with mono for various reasons but a lot of my topwater this year and some of last year has been with an experiment with P-Line HydroFloat (15 pounds test floating braid - hi-vis yellow) with a 7 or 8 foot 20 pounds test mono leader tied with a Crazy Alberto knot. The leader is mostly because lighter braid tends to wrap hooks more especially when walking the dog. The stiffer mono helps minimize that somewhat.

In case you end up doing more experimentation yourself.

Help stop invasive spcies. Don't move fish between unconnected bodies of water. Clean, drain and dry your boat before launching on another water body.
Unless clearly stated as such, opinions expressed by Dan Kimmel on this forum are not the opinions or policies of The Bass Federation of Michigan.

Hollada

#10
Deep cranking -Ive had multiple issues with my crank line (12 # invisix) breaking off in mid cast.  I think the issue is my own laziness though.  I might get a little loop at the end of cast and rather than pull it out I'd reel in and assume I'd cast it out on the next cast.   I think that occasionally that little loop would get kinked and create a week spot that eventually broke.  I'd blame the line, but it was more than likely me.   

I can blame Fluoro in general as that stuff seems to overrun pretty easy.  The other option I'm considering is braid with a Fluoro leader (for deep cranking).  Anyone try this?

Jerks -30# powerpro, 10/12# invisix leader
Topwater -30# powerpro, 15# mono leader
Dan

2019 BassCat Caracal
225 Evinrude G2 HO
Humminbird Solix 12's
Minnkota Ultrex

bigjc

Line choices always makes for an interesting topic!  :o

I have switched many of my rods over to braid/flouro (braid with a flouro leader) including almost all of my spinning outfits.  I still keep one spinning rod with mono, for snappin a tube.  I still use Excalibur, Co-poly, for most of my searchbait presentations (crankin, topwater, lipless cranks, etc.).  My preference for crankin is 10 pound co-polymer or 10 pound flouro.

Most of the time I use XPS flouro: Excalibur Co-poly and either Spiderwire, Suffix or Power Pro braid.

JC

bigjc

One more thought: I do still occasionally use mono, but almost exclusively for crackin a tube on spinning and top water on baitcast.  I only use Stren Green mono! :D

bob o

mojo, please check your guides for nicks or even if they are still attached to the rod

djkimmel

Good advice bob o! Probably should have been said by one of us right off that bat though I guess I discounted this advice at first because he mentioned 2 different rods?

I recently had a fairly new rod out and was casting with a Fluoro leader when I noticed the leader appeared to be peeling. I pulled off a few long, slender slivers of leaders. Checked my tip guide and sure enough, somehow I had knocked a chunk out of it created a very sharped groove. Lucky I didn't loose some lures myself since I used it one entire day before noticing the shaved line.

Sometimes guide damage is obvious but I've had times when I couldn't see the damage but the line was obviously getting damaged. I like the cotton technique - drag some cotton over the top and bottom of the guide to see if it catches on anything. Usually works.

Help stop invasive spcies. Don't move fish between unconnected bodies of water. Clean, drain and dry your boat before launching on another water body.
Unless clearly stated as such, opinions expressed by Dan Kimmel on this forum are not the opinions or policies of The Bass Federation of Michigan.

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