Don't want to be the harbinger of bad news when it comes to looking at the end of another softwater fishing season but... I have to start thinking about winterizing. I drain the lower unit and refill it. I have already stabilized the gas and ran it the last two times out with stabilized gas. I have filled the gas tanks and oil reservoir, even though some say that you should not store gas tanks filled. I have been for years. Have tried to dry everything thoroughly. Going to take everything out of the boat and put fabric softener sheets in the compartments to keep the mice out and glue boards around the garage. I have not fogged the motor carbeurator, can't seem to get a direct shot in and I'm too mechanically inept to take much off to ge at it, but I do spray all the cylinders with fogging oil and turn the engine over a few times with the plugs loose. I don't put new plugs in until after I burn the oil out in the spring. Going to check the trim tilt fluid and break fluid on the trailer. Going to inspect the tires and hubs. Probably should have the bearings repacked. Haven't done that in a while. Going to take the batteries inside, although I left them in last year on a trickle charge and they seemed pretty good this year. I hate taking the batteries out, it's a pain. I take the key out and tuck it away in a compartment. I worry about someone breaking in an turning the key on, that's if I leave the batteries on trickle charge. Another good reason to take them out though.
What other tips do y'all have for winterization? I have been doing an online search as well and this site has some good products. http://www.boatersworld.com/winterization-store.htm I think that Boaters World is one of the plethora of ads that Lt. Dan has on this site. So if you use it, you should go through his link instead of the one that I just pasted in but it will help you get to the products.
That sounds pretty complete. I do however take the electronics in to keep any mositure from freezing. And I just disconnect the batteries. In the spring they still have a charge. As far as fogging the carbs. I run the engine before fogging the cylinders for a few seconds while spraying the oil in the intake.
I have a Johnson 225 Venom and, I hate to admit, I don't know where that intake is. I think there is a black cover over them that I have to remove. I have a 25 horse Merc on my pontoon boat and the intake is easy to get to and I always have pulled the gas line and just before it died I would spray in the fogging oil.
I'm not sure on your motor but normally they have a cover that extends either right or left and wrap around with openings facing to the rear of the boat.
One more thing, more of a PM thing that most of us overlook, pull your prop. You should really do it every trip or every other depending on the water you fish, but check for weeds, fishing line, etc and look at the propshaft seal. Just recently I've heard of a couple guys buying new lower units because they didn't check often enough. while you've got it off, grease the splines and shaft.
one more thing - run a gallon of pikn Rv antifreeze in your livewell on recirc, as well as a gallon in the bilge and pump it out through the bilge pump. There are low spots in there that will freeeze up otherwise.
otherwise, looks pretty complete to me.
Thanks guys, good ideas.
if you are prone to getting mice in your boat, when you cover it for the winter, just lay the cover on top and don't run any straps to the trailer. also disconnect the winch and tiedown straps....
i used to get mice REALLY bad in mine until i started doing this and now i rarely see any sign of them when i open things back up in spring.
Dan,
What do you use for a stabilizer?
Do you have Ethanol there,if so the shelf life is about 1 week!
Starbrite has 2 products (1 is a stabilizer additive and the other is a fuel tank cleaner that breaks up any residue so it can be burned with the fuel)for gasoline engines (all kinds of engines)
that deal with Ethanol issues,stabilize your fuel,and can improve your mpg (which it has done in my pickup).I use it in everything
that has an gasoline engine and will pickup their Diesel fuel additive soon.I have heard of quite a few people with Ethanol/water in fuel issues this year (Ethanol promotes water) the other thing you should have as a precaution is a water seperator on your boats.
When you winterize your boat you should always tilt your big outboard down just in the event there is any water left in it to freeze.I take off my trolling motor and keep it warm during the
winter,but i know everyone might not want to or need to!Some people take their tires off their trailers during storage,i just back my trailer tires on wood blocks for the winter.
For mice, which have been a problem because I store my boat up north in the middle of the woods, I have been putting fabric softener dryer sheets in the boat. Since I have done that no mice.
I always burn premium gas in my boat. Was told by a pretty reputable mechanic that it will cause less carbon build up etc. I don't think there is any ethanol in the premium.
I have seen the starbrite additive at Meijers and will take a second look at it.
Hey I just did a search and found this article on ethanol and winter storage.
http://www.fishing.us/node/588
Thanks
Dan,
Check with the gas stations that you fill up your fuel tanks with,it
is a business to them and if they can add Ethanol (all gas stations were supposed to make the switch to Ethanol in the past 2 years and depending on the station owners,they are supposed to clean out the tank completely before making the switch to Ethanol,unfortunately many have not and Ethanol will loosen any deposits from old fuel formulations and it will be passed on to consumers and their engines and this tainted fuel has caused problems with fuel pumps and water seperators)and increase their profits they will!The outboard motors that were manufactured for our boats were made before Ethanol was an issue,there are plastic parts and rubber hoses that fail more rapidly because of the properties of Ethanol fuel that we need to combat and slow down or stop that from happening.
here is Starbrite's website so any of you can give it a look;
http://www.startron.com/
Put in your zip code to find the dealer near you who has it in stock,
most Wal-Marts have it and i Believe Boater's World does too.The inital treatment is 1 OZ. to 8 Gallons of fuel, every tank fill-up after that is 1 OZ. to 16 Gallons of fuel.It is cheap insurance compared to replacing fuel pumps or worse,i know of a few guys who have had fuel related problems (it cost the $750.00 to $1,758.00 to fix their boats)and i don't want to have that problem! ;)
Quote from: Dan on October 18, 2007, 10:33:08 AM
For mice, which have been a problem because I store my boat up north in the middle of the woods, I have been putting fabric softener dryer sheets in the boat. Since I have done that no mice.
I always used cotton balls soaked in Spearmint Oil, worked great, porbably used 6 or 8 throughout the whole boat.
With the way the weather has been lately, I haven't even thought about winterizing yet. I hope to sneak a couple November hot pond trips in before I do that.
I have always understood that storing with fuel tanks full is the best way to keep water condensation out. The stablizer is more important for carburated boats. Unless you drain the carb bowls. I like gas in my carb bowls with stablizer and a full fuel tank of stablized gas. I keep bowls full with gas because I want to keep the carb seals moist. Less chance of carb problems later. I should start running stablizer when I go out. I will do that next week.
BD ;D
Thanks guys great advice! I also recently read where when the tanks are full to put tape over your fuel tank vents. I also had a good friend of mine last year have a mouse crawl in his exhaust ports on his new Ranger and drop corn through an open valve into a cylinder and fill it to the brim. When he tried to start the motor of course it wouldn't even turn a bit. He is now taping his exhaust ports.